Warm Spinach Salad, Two Ways
If you are a vegetarian who likes to cook, or have ever lived in San Francisco, chances are you have heard of Greens Restaurant or own the cookbook. Besides a beautiful space and an even better view of the San Francisco Bay, Greens offers inspiration on how to creatively prepare vegetables to appeal to vegetarians and omnivores alike, and isn't afraid to use a little butter, cream, and cheese in the process. Some variation of its famous Wilted Spinach Salad has been on the menu forever, as attested by my friend Julie, who used to be a server there, and who insisted that I try it. It is classic, delicious. and hearty. Some of the spinach stays crisp and fresh, while some is wilted and soft. The toppings are salty, savory, and crunchy.
The recipes below (one veggie, one with bacon) are my versions, as inspired by Greens. Once you get comfortable with the technique, there are infinite variations to play with. Just make sure to use a green that is edible raw but sturdy enough to take the hot oil. (Endive, chicory
, frisée, and young mustard greens come to mind. Other vegetables like carrots, beets, and potatoes can be pre-cooked and mixed in.)
With all due respect to vegetarians, I am a committed omnivore who subscribes to the credo "Bacon makes it better." If you choose to include it, the smoky, salty flavor of bacon really compliments the flavors here, and helps to legitimize the salad as a main course if you are cooking for someone who thinks vegetables are "rabbit food."
As a main course for 2 people, you will need:
- 1/2 to 2/3 of a pound raw spinach, well-washed and dried. Spinach is grown in sandy soil, so unless you buy it in a bag that says "ready to eat" and "triple washed," soak it, drain it, and rinse it well.
- Basil and/or mint leaves, optional
- 1/3 red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 large tomato, cut into wedges, or a handful of cherry tomatoes, cut in half and seasoned with a pinch of salt
- 1/3 cup kalamata olives. Buy them with the pits still in, as they're usually firmer and fresher. I see no need to remove the pits if you properly warn your dinner guests.
- 1/2 cup loosely crumbled goat cheese. I prefer goat to feta here, as it's creamier and less salty.
- 1/3 cup walnut halves crumbled with your fingers. If you like, lightly toast in olive oil with the croutons above to bring out the buttery flavor. Watch carefully and make sure they don't burn, or they will be bitter and inedible. Drain on a paper towel.
- 2 tablespoons sherry or red wine vinegar
- 1 heaping teaspoon dijon mustard, optional
- Olive oil
- Salt
- Black pepper
- 4 slices bacon, optional, cooked until crispy in a skillet over low heat, or in the oven or toaster oven at 400 degrees. Drain on paper towels and crumble when cool. Reserve the rendered bacon fat.
- 2 large slices sourdough bread, optional, cut into 3/4 inch cubes. Toasted in a skillet over medium heat with 1 tablespoon olive oil and a pinch of salt until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Drain on a paper towel.
Vegetarian directions:
In a very large bowl that is twice the volume of the greens, add the spinach, tomatoes, onions and olives. In a small bowl, mix together the mustard, if you're using it, and the vinegar. If you don't use the mustard, add a pinch of salt. Pour the vinegar mixture over the spinach and toss.
In a skillet, heat 5 tablespoons olive oil until it just starts to smoke. Very carefully pour the hot oil over the spinach and immediately toss with tongs. Add the basil, mint, goat cheese, walnuts, and croutons, and lightly toss again. Serve immediately.
Omnivore directions:
Same as above, but with bacon. Use a combination of 2 tablespoons olive oil and 3 tablespoons bacon fat to wilt the spinach. Add the crumbled bacon at the end, with the goat cheese.